Bethlehem

Bethlehem

O little town of Bethlehem

how still we see thee lie.

Above the deep and dreamless sleep

the silent stars go by.

Yet in thy dark streets shineth

the everlasting light.

The hopes and fears of all the years

are met in thee tonight.

Ah, Bethlehem. So often we have sung your praises. So well do we know you in song and pantomime, in children's Christmas presentations and table manger scenes. Now we are to see you in reality - the twenty-first century version where the little town has grown somewhat. What tour memories of this town have remained with you? Which have I brought home with me? Let me think.

The little town of Bethlehem of two thousand years ago has grown into a city-hardly little, hardly still.

After a peaceful stroll around the Shepherds' Field we hit the streets of Bethlehem running. Well perhaps not running for up until now  it has been a long first day and lunch was waiting. You probably don't remember what you ate but you surely will remember dancing around in costume to the beat of a Turkish drum, and the coffee afterwards.

The name of the restaurant?  Christmas Bells, situated on Manger Square. True, I'm not joking. I am always amazed how a non-descript entry door can open up into a vast wonderland of surprises. In this case the small door lead into a vast cavern of culinary delights - well, buffet food! As my photo shows, they milk the name 'Bethlehem'  for every last drop. In this case I didn't complain.

Even with the photograph, I can't remember what I actually ate for lunch. The Bethlehem beer was cool and pleasant.

It was then across Manger Square to the Church of the Nativity and its close neighbour. We came knowing from Sunday School that Jesus was born here in Bethlehem but after being lead through the churches and caves, things became a little confusing so I'll leave that till later. I'll now hop on the bus and go quickly to the last big event of the day.

The Three Arches!

What's that? Come on now. Many of you have been waiting for this - retail therapy. For those dedicated shoppers among us this was the first opportunity to flash the plastic.

The Three Arches. Wasn't it an Aladdin's cave of wonders! This was another case of how an unassuming door can lead to seduction and overspending.  The family-run company has been in business for many generations and one can see why. From the beginning there were smooth, polished salespeople one finds hard to resist.

Think about it. We enter and "as a special privilege" we are able to watch one of their craftsmen at work. The engaging old fellow is busily whittling away at an emerging camel.  He is creating pieces, we are told by our shop guide, from solid pieces of olive tree which display a deep beauty, not like the cheap laminated carvings one finds in most of the other shops. Only quality products here. And the craftsman smiles and whittles a little more.

What an amazing array of olive tree carvings could be seen in the Three Arches. These are the small ones.

Then "this way please", past eye-bobbling items which are not to be admired yet. "There is something more I want to show you". We are then taken to a cluttered counter  to be addressed (entertained) by another smooth talker. He introduces us to a range of great products available to us. Yes, all currencies and cards are accepted. He engages his listeners by asking questions and handing out small gifts to those who come up with a correct answer. ( By the way, I was lucky enough to be given one of these small gifts, a colourful trinket box. It was made in China and the lid had already come away from the hinge.)

Complimentary cool drinks next. Or coffee or tea. How could one resist?

Did you? Would you?

We spent a long time there, so that we could have a thorough look around, or was it all designed to wear down our resistance?

Yes, my wife really loves her gold (14 carat, because that resists wearing) Jerusalem Cross pendant with a free chain (gold-plated, I would think).

But this is Bethlehem, after all and it's good to support local industry.