Saturday 19 November 2016

Church of the Primacy of St Peter

The Church of the Primacy of St Peter

In Tabgha on the north-west shore of The Sea of Galilee stands the Church of the Primacy of St Peter.

We were walking down the tree-lined avenue ( including a number of fine, tall eucalypts) when he said to me, "I'm just about churched out. What's this one all about?"
I must admit that the last few hours had been a case of "in the bus", a very short drive, "out of the bus", " forty minutes should be enough", a quick visit to the church, which church? "is everyone back yet?"  short drive.....
But back to the shade of the cooling eucalypts. We were approaching a chocky, blue-stone chapel with the blue waters of the Sea of Galilee shining behind it. A small, rectangular sign near the front entrance reading "Sacellum Primatus Sancti Petri" provided an answer to my companion who was wondering which church we were now visiting. It would provide an answer, assuming that he had not forgotten his school-boy Latin.
This was the Chapel (Sacellum) of the Primacy (Primatus) of St Peter (Sancti Petri). "Fine", he said, guessing an approximate translation of the Latin, "but what's it all about?"
I resisted saying, "read in the Bible, St John, chapter 21 and you will know all about it." This chapter has always seemed a little strange to me. It raises in my mind as many questions as it has answers. But that's another matter and I won't go with that now.
This chapel does commemorate events that are related in John 21. It relates especially to verses 15 - 17.
 When they had finished eating, Jesus said to Simon Peter, " Simon, son of John, do you love me more than these?"
" Yes, Lord," he said, " you know that I love you."
Jesus said, " Feed my lambs."
Again Jesus said, " Simon, son of John, do you truly love me?"
He answered, " Yes, Lord, you know that I love you."
Jesus said, " Take care of my sheep."
The third time he said to him, " Simon, son of John, do you love me?"
Peter was hurt because Jesus asked him a third time, " Do you love me?" He said," Lord, you know all things; you know that I love you."
Jesus said, " Feed my sheep."
Keeping in mind Peter's thrice denial at the crucifixion, this three times questioning of his love towards his Lord is taken as Jesus reinstating Peter as the leader of the apostles. Jesus' final reply of " Feed my sheep" implies that he should now dedicate his life to proclaiming the Gospel; a compelling invitation from Jesus.
Bronze statue of Jesus empowering St Peter.

The bronze statue, on the shore of the Sea near the chapel is a graphic picture of Jesus "knighting" Peter for his future job, with the shepherd's crook. This church, according to tradition, marks the spot where Jesus' forgiveness was forthcoming. Whether it is or it isn't, is not really that important. What is important is the story told here by John which has had so many repercussions in the centuries since then.
As with many of the holy sites in Israel, this church is administered by the Franciscan Custody of the Holy Land. It is relatively new, being built in 1933. However it was built on the foundations of a much earlier church dating back to the fourth century.
Inside the church one finds a memorial to another of the events related in John, chapter 21. This concerns Jesus cooking a breakfast of fish for the seven disciples who were present on this occasion. The fish came from a bountiful catch which the fishermen-disciples had just made at the suggestion of Jesus. (Shades of Luke 5:1-11 here!). The limestone rock pushing up through the floor of the chapel in front of the altar is reputed to be the "table" on which Jesus prepared and served this breakfast. It is known as the "Mensa Christi" (table of Christ), as the sign indicates.
Inside the Church of the Primacy of St Peter with the Mensa Christi forming a dominant feature in front of the altar.
Churched out or not, people who visit this chapel certainly are encouraged by the various elements displayed, to go back to the sources which refer to Simon, or Peter, or Rocky. They also have the opportunity to ponder more deeply on the loving forgiveness so freely given by Jesus as shown in his relationship with Peter. For many there is the urge to look more closely at how this idea of the primacy of St Peter has played out within the Christian Church throughout the ages. There is also the spur to study more carefully and critically John, chapter 21. For many biblical scholars John's gospel appears to end at the conclusion of chapter 20, and chapter 21 is an afterthought, a PS.
A visit to a holy site can lead the pilgrim off onto many different paths. Where did  this visit to The Church of the Primacy of St Peter lead you who have visited it? Or had it, as I could well understand, become indistinguishable from the many other churches you saw when you were a little "churched out"?


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